7 mars 2009

Pants sew along #1

For English scroll down.
Lo siento mucho, no castellano esta vez.

Les photos ne sont pas nettes et ma toile n'est pas repassée (désolée) mais voici la première étape de mon pantalon. J'ai fait le patron de base en suivant les instructions de Patternmaking for fashion design et assemblé une première toile. J'ai fait l'ourlet d'une jambe au niveau de la cheville, de l'autre côté je n'en ai pas fait.
A cette étape, je ne fais que vérifier le tombé du futur pantalon.
Pour cela il faut chercher les plis bizarres. Je ne suis pas une pro mais voilà ce que j'ai compris, là où il y a un pli, il y a un problème (liste non exhaustive) :
- des plis horizontaux indiquent que le pantalon est trop étroit,
- des plis verticaux indiquent que le pantralon est trop large,
- des plis obliquent en direction de l'entrejambe indiquent que l'entrejambe est trop courte,
Il faut vérifier que la ligne marquant le droit fil du pantalon est alignée sur le milieu du pied et les coutures côtés perpendiculaires au sol. Enfin, il faut bouger, se pencher, s'assoir pour vérifier le confort du vêtement en mouvement.

A ce stade, le résultat est satisfaisant. Il y a quelques plis en direction de l'entrejambe, je vais l'allonger un peu et voir ce que ça donne. La prochaine étape sera de dessiner le patron du futur pantalon avec poches italiennes devant et passepoilées au dos, braguette, ceinture et de faire la toile. Yapluka.

The pics are blurry and the muslin is not ironed (sorry) but this is the 1st step of my pants' making. I drafted a basic slack pattern following Patternmaking for fashion design and hand saw a muslin. I saw one hem at ankle level and left the other one undone.
At this step, I just check the future pants' fit.
I'm not a pro but I understood that where there are stress lines, there is a problem, so one has to look for stress lines (non-exhaustive list):
- horizontal stress lines indicate tightness issue,
- vertical stress lines indicate looseness problem,
- stress lines directed to crotch indicate a too short crotch extension.
One also has to verify the creasline at hem is aligned with center of the feet or shoes. Once this is done, one should move, bend and sit to check the comfort of the pants in motion.

At this step, my muslin is ok. There are a few stress lines directed to the crotch area. I will extend it a bit and see if it's better. Next, I will draft THE pattern with front pockets, welt pockets at the back, fly zipper and waist band then sew a muslin. Let's get started!

54 commentaires:

  1. They look very good. I agree with you about lengthening the front crotch.

    It sounds like you are making quite a complex pattern!
    Can't wait to see them!

  2. I would've called this muslin perfect. I don't understand wrinkles! I don't understand stress lines! Aaaack! They're the same, aren't they?

  3. I agree with the front and the back looks great!!

  4. I think these look really good! I would not have assumed the front crotch needs lengthening, but that the fabric had wrinkled from sitting down. I could see them disappearing by lengthening the crotch, though.

    How brave you are for drafting your pattern from scratch! I think you'll be so proud of these pants when they're done!

  5. You are off to a great start! I agree with Antoinette; You will be super proud when these pants are done. I love your 'go for it' attitude :))

  6. These look really good. Cant wait to see the pants in your chosen fabric!!

  7. C'est vrai qu'il tombe plutôt bien !
    Je trouve que c'est le plus difficile : savoir comment corriger ce qui ne va pas. J'avoue que j'ai encore du mal avec ça, c'est pourquoi je n'ai pas encore osé me lancer dans un "vrai" pantalon ...

  8. dans les regles de l'art!!!

  9. The muslin fits you great. Congrats! The only tweak is the front crotch as others have said. Well done!

  10. The pants muslin look great to me!

  11. T'es où ma jolie métisse :o)
    On est en pause blog toutes les deux
    Je tente de répondre à ton mail mais suis sans arret dérangée.
    Gros gros bisous ma copine Chérie

  12. Love your blog. Hope you post again soon...!

  13. tu deviens quoi Mélissa?

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